Food and Feast - Soukl el Tayeb's reference on the Annual Holy Calendar

I am like a little ant who keeps all types of documents and find herself with a load of papers and other stuff... I have decided to put away all my papers (and stuff), to class them in a proper way in order to continue my quest and begin a new project (baby blues again)! Upon returning to Lebanon, decades ago, I was always intrigued by how the Lebanese eat a specific kind of food during a religious celebration. One important document that I kept was a calendar written for the Souk el Tayeb newsletter, I'd like to share it with you. I feel it is essential that we know that these traditions exist. Our children need to live through these same traditions in order to keep them alive. A few days ago on the 4th of December during the feast of Saint Barbara (yes, my name) I bought some Atayef which are half moon shaped rolls of dough stuffed with curd, flavored with rose petal jam). It's festive, traditional, and part of our Lebanese identity. I shall copy word for word the article I kept to share with you this information.

Ashoura: Marks the martyrdom of Husayn ibn Ali, grandson of the Prophet Mohammad, at the Battle of Karbala on 10 Muhararram 61 AH (Oct, 10 680 AD). Tradition has it that every day during the 10 days of mourning, a different family cooks hrisseh, also sometimes called qamhiyeh, for the whole neighborhood. Hrisseh, a stew of overcooked wheat, is a typical dish in Christian tradition too. It is cooked for a very long time in huge copper cauldrons, on hot coals or wood fire, so by the end, the meat and wheat has dissolved into a thick porridge. Among the Christians, it is cooked in honor of the village patron saint (usually the Virgin Mary), or during summer feasts in the mountains.


Easter: The period of Easter lasts about 50 days. There are considered the holiest in the year. As in other religious celebrations, Lent, a 40 day period of fasting and penitence, is observed in preparation for Easter. The rituals of the Catholic Church differ from those of the Eastern Orthodox one and the dates of the two Easters only coincide once every 4 years. During Lent, the fast is observed until midday, when a frugal, often vegetarian meal is consumed. In the past, no joyous occasion could be celebrated during Lent and even today weddings are still not permitted.


Specific dishes are cooked in different parts of the country, like kebbet hommos (chickpea kebbeh) in Zgharta; kebbet yaqteen (Pumpkin kebbeh), and kebbeh hileh (Potato kebbeh) elsewhere. All these different vegetarian interpretations of kebbeh - virtually a national dish - were developed as a solution to not eating meat in Lent. Traditions says, that in the early days when Christianity was still forbidden and Christians were persecuted, a Roman officer sent his troops from house to house during Lent to see who was eating kebbeh and who was not so that he could find out who was Christian. The Christians got news of this strategy and developed their own, by preparing vegetarian kebbeh, so wherever the soldiers went, they found kebbeh and people were safe. Hence the name kebbet hileh, meaning trick kebbeh.


Another common dish eaten during Lent is cooked wild bitter herbs dressed with a little vinegar, in memory of the drink offered to Christ on the cross.


All desserts were free of butter, milk, and egg (vegan in fact) especially among the Orthodox Christians who did not consume anything of animal origin, even honey, during this period. sfouf b'debbes, a molasses cake, saved those craving for sweets.


When on Easter Sunday the bells ring to announce Christ's resurrection, people light candles in celebration and eat maamoul, prepared well in advance. This Easter biscuit is made from semolina and butter, flavored with orange flower water and stuffed with dates or ground pistachio, walnuts or almonds. In some areas instead of being stuffed, the biscuits are sweet and are flavored with thyme and marjoram.


Wheat, a symbol of life, is also used to convey the theme of rebirth with wheat-based dishes served at midday, as wheat soup with meat or as a dessert made from boiled wheat, pine nuts, almonds, dried fruit and orange flower water.


Eid el Fitr and Eid el Adha: Mloukhiyeh is the main dish found on the table during these holy feasts. It is often accompanied by chicken and rice, and depending on the location, we also find mashawi or kebbeh and the inevitable fattoush salad.


Many families serve "white" dishes based on yogurt or milk during the first days of Ramadan, including fatteh, koussa blaban or shish barak. These symbolize better days to come. Some desserts are specific to this holy month like osmalyieh (from osmali or ottoman) mafroukeh, qatayef, karbouj and of course kallaj Ramadan - a fine dough filled with special crea, fried in oil and dipped in syrup, almost a sweet version f a Tunisian brik. The cream filling is a sort of thick custard made with milk, sugar, a little flour and starch, gently cooked and scented with rose or orange blossom water. In some areas Kellaj is eaten unfried, soaked in orange blossom and rose water.


Druing Ramadan even the drinks are special when people serve qamareddine and jallab.


Before sunrise, there is souhour - a snack that helps sustain people during the day long fast. Some people eat nqouu, alo known as khshaf, a mix of melted dried apricot, dried fruits and nuts thought to help quench the thirst during the day.


Eid el Mawled and Seneh el-Hejriyeh: In celebration of the Prophet Mohammad's birth and during Muslim New Year, white dishes like shish barak, koussa and desserts like milk rice, mhallahbiyeh are eaten. Some families still perpetuate the tradition of boiling milk on the door step to make good days in the future. Dates are distributed and in some areas, special pastries called kaak el-abbass, a very basic biscuit made with flour, samneh, milk and sugar.


Saint Barbara: Saint Barbara's feast is the local Christian version of Halloween when children dressed in costumes go from door to door asking for treats. Saint Barbara was said to have lived in 3rd century AD, and she had to flee from her Roman father who refused to let her become a Christian and threatened to kill her.  Among the miracles that saved her was the wheat that miraculously sprouted to hide her progress as she fled barefoot across the fields. Saint Barbara's day is celebrated with sweet qamhiyeh - boiled wheat served with sugar, orange and rose water, almonds, pine nuts and raisins. Other sweets include qatayeb - half moon shaped rolls of soft dough stuffed with walnut cream; and the qawwamaat - balls of deep-fried dough soaked in sugar syrup.


Christmas: Christmas Eve is celebrated with a laden table. The place of honor is usually reserved for a delicious oriental stuffed chicken: filled with rice, chopped meat, almonds, walnut, pine nuts, flavored with pepper and cinnamon. Another dish is stuffed chicken neck.


Years ago all the typical sweets were fried in oil and the family would gather around the stove where a pot of oil bubbled constantly ready fro frying the awwamaat (imbued with a hot sugar syrup), zlebyieh (long strips of soft dough, fried without sugar), and maakrun (fingers of dense dough, fried and immersed in hot syrup). These same sweets were prepared for the Epiphany (6th January) and it was the habit to fry them every evening after Christmas leading up to that day. These nights were named "Frying Nights" and the tradition remains until today. Note that on the 6th of January, flour and water was mixed together to make sourdough to be used as leaven to make bread throughout the year (a bit of mouneh knowledge there). Christ is said to come and bless the mixture, traditionally hung on a tree late at night.

It is also worth noting that some celebrate Jesus' birth by preparing meghleh, a rice based dessert with crawiah spices traditionally served to celebrate birth.

This article was published in the Souk el Tayeb newsletter Aug. 09, author is unknown.

What is Mouneh?

Mouneh is an old food tradition still produced in rural Lebanon involving the annual processing of fruits, vegetables, herbs, flowers, and animal by-products. It is done naturally according to availability during each season. The foods are later stored away in the pantry or "oodet el mouneh " —which translates to the mouneh room and these preserves are consequently consumed all year long.

Nada Saber's Mouneh Jars

Another words, it is the season's bounty in a jar—ensuring winter's survival (in the past)—the rewards remain, packing the vivid flavors and preserving traditions of our ancestors. It is of value and very much worth perpetuating. It is a food with a social root, a sanctuary of tradition. It is a story of the land and its history. 

By all means, let us not follow only the recipes but let us live them and define our lives according to what we put into our body—it is a way to feed the soul, not just the body. 

Happiness is homemade, and never forget that—for we can find ourselves no further than a simple meal with one's family filled with a dish flavored with a mother's or a father's love.

And finally, let's educate the woman of our society, it is their that lies the answer to a peaceful nation (I'm a bit worried about our poor nation). Remember that we are all a product of our childhood—plenty of good food and good communication can wipe all kinds of misery. As our dear friend Carlo would say, "let us focus on the good, the clean, and the fair".

Launching of Mouneh at Antoine - The Photographs

Barbara Abdeni Massaad launched her book “Mouneh: Preserving Food for the Lebanese Pantry” at Library Antoine on November 20th with a book signing session. Many attended the book launch in support of Massaad and to purchase the book.

The book is a comprehensive study of the ways Lebanese preserve food which is an important aspect of Lebanese heritage.

It’s a photo report along with stories for different recipes from around Lebanon.

Photos by Mahmoud Kheir (thank you!)


Read more: http://starscene.dailystar.com.lb/social-scene/2010/11/barbara-massad-launches-mouneh-preserving-food-for-the-lebanese-pantry/#ixzz16N15CxqS
(Be Seen, Be on Star Scene :: Your Favorite Entertainment Online Magazine)

Sowar Magazine

Sowar Magazine features the photographs of the Mouneh book starting page 38 ...

Les quatre saisons de Barbara Abdeni Massaad

I was very touched by this article today in the newspaper. For those who can read French!

 

L'orient le Jour par Carla Henoud 20/11/2010

Vient de paraître Après le succès de « Manou'shé », paru en 2005, réédité en 2009, et qui avait obtenu le Gourmand Cooking Award, Barbara Abdeni Massaad signera son nouvel ouvrage « Mouneh, preserving foods for the Lebanese Pantry »* aujourd'hui, à la Librairie Antoine ABC, de 17h00 à 20h00. Un régal.

Elle l'a préparé durant cinq ans comme on concocte un plat, lentement et avec amour. Comme on fait ses réserves de souvenirs et d'émotions pour la vie, en les partageant. Tous les ingrédients sont naturels, beaux à voir, bons à déguster. Ce livre, baptisé Mouneh, preserving foods for the Lebanese pantry, Barbara Abdeni Massaad l'a conçu avec patience et passion. Un peu comme une maternité, dans la préparation de chaque détail. Ce n'est pas un livre de plus sur le thème, « il n'y en a eu qu'un seul sur le sujet, précise-t-elle, et qui était plus une approche anthropologique de la Mouneh ». Ce n'est pas un livre de plus sur le Liban ou la cuisine locale. Ce livre est un ouvrage à la fois charmant et complet, minutieusement préparé pour que tout y figure. Les produits, les personnes, les villages, les histoires, les parfums et les émotions. Avec des recettes claires, des textes pleins de poésie et des photos imbibées de couleur et de vie.
La Mouneh de Barbara Abdeni Massaad, ce sont des centaines de rencontres emmagasinées dans sa mémoire visuelle et émotionnelle durant des années, des mois, des journées entières à sillonner le pays. Et autant d'ingrédients découverts et redécouverts, de villages et de visages souriants. Ce sont les produits naturels d'un Liban méconnu, des saveurs, des coutumes de manière agréable jalousement préservées par une poignée d'individus qui ne savent pas vivre autrement qu'attachés à la tradition, à la terre, et évoluent au gré de la nature et de ses humeurs. C'est également une nostalgie, le besoin de retenir un patrimoine, de le transmettre aux jeunes générations, presque une mission. « Pour que nos enfants, dit-elle, puissent continuer à sauvegarder notre passé. »

Ce livre ressemble à son auteure. Rousse, comme les épis de blé au soleil, la caméra au cou, le stylo au bout du doigt, les lunettes rivées sur un monde extérieur qu'elle perçoit dans ses moindres recoins. Il rassemble ses convictions et ses contemplations.

Hymne à la nature
La couverture de Mouneh, preserving foods for the Lebanese pantry est une belle entrée en matière, des mains orientales usées par le temps, et des tomates séchées heureuses de s'offrir. Le reste de l'ouvrage est dans ce même esprit joyeux. « J'ai lu toute la documentation qui existait sur le sujet, confie-t-elle, j'ai été partout, souvent accompagnée de mes enfants, pour qu'ils apprennent aussi. Nous avons rencontré des gens dans tous les villages libanais qui nous ont acceptés, parlé, montré la manière. J'ai rempli une vingtaine de classeurs et puis j'ai tout recomposé comme un puzzle et d'une manière artisanale. Je voulais que tout soit parfait. » Les chapitres sont divisés en saisons, ponctués de rencontres. À chaque saison ses réserves à faire, réparties par catégories, fruits, légumes, produits animaliers. Barbara a choisi de commencer par le printemps ! Le lecteur saura ainsi que mars est le mois des réserves de cornichons, de chou, d'amandes vertes, de thym. Qu'avril est consacré à celles du miel, du fromage de chèvre, des fleurs d'orangers. Que mai préfère les artichauts et l'ail. Juin les fruits secs, les abricots, la menthe, les fleurs et le thym sauvages. Que juillet est idéal pour les concombres, maïs, tomates cerises, melon. Août pour la basilique, les pêches, les tomates séchées. Et septembre, pour les pommes, les figues, les olives vertes et la viande. Il saura également comment profiter d'octobre pour sa réserve d'olives noires, de dattes, de poires et de tomates. Des betteraves, raisins, coings et citrouilles de novembre. Et qu'enfin décembre est bon pour les carottes, les pamplemousses, janvier pour les mandarines et février pour les oranges amères et le citron. Il apprendra comment faire les cornichons, l'arak, le miel, les sirops et autres confitures, et partagera les histoires de toutes ces personnes derrière ce savoir-faire.
Et puis il y a les photos. Belles. Saisies au naturel, en extérieur, sans retouches. Un des aspects le plus important du livre, selon Massaad, photographe d'abord. Une photographe gourmande, qui aime autant la cuisine et perçoit de nombreux points communs entre ses deux passions. « Et surtout cette sensibilité pour quelque chose de vivant. »
Il faudrait également saluer la mise en page du livre qui baigne dans une douce harmonie, le choix du papier et une qualité d'impression qui donnent au travail l'éclat qu'il mérite.

(*) Une première signature de « Mouneh, preserving foods for the Lebanese Pantry », accompagnée d'une exposition des photos de Barbara Abdeni Massaad a eu lieu jeudi 18 novembre à Tawlet Souk el-Tayeb. L'exposition se poursuivra jusqu'au 2 décembre.
L'auteure signera à nouveau son ouvrage aujourd'hui à la Librairie Antoine, ABC Achrafieh, de 17h00 à 20h00.

The Hummus - Foul Joint in Hamra

The basic set-up

My friend Annia Ciezadlo , a talented American journalist / food writer, married to a Lebanese man  has a new exciting book due in February called "A Day of Honey". She took me to a quaint little hommos joint in Hamra. So much fun! The recipe for making hommos is really simple yet a few master it. Here is the thing, if a restaurant or a snack masters the art of making the perfect hommos, then this place has great potential for many other culinary endeavors (I always say) . Here is a simple recipe that is very nourishing and delicious made daily in the hommos joints all around the country, it's called balila. It's a peasant food by excellence, but isn't that what real food is all aobut?

He grinds garlic to a fine paste with a pestle

Squeezes a lemon

He adds lemon juice to the garlic paste

A pinch of salt

A cup of hommos

Another cup of foul

His skilled hands mixes all together

Voila!

Annia enjoying her meal in her favorite snack nearby

Terra Madre / Salon del Gusto 2010

My daughter and I attended Terra Madre / Salon del Gusto 2010 in Torino, Italy this year with the same gusto and motivation. A delegation of about 15 persons coming from Lebanon joined, mostly made up of farmers and producers from all around the country. A very nice reporter named Assi Saji (who comes from Lebanese ancestry from his mother's side) send me a link with an interview I conducted with him on Italian TV - RaiNews 24. Take a minute to view the ambiance we lived through. The Lebanese stand was very popular and people from all over the world came to discuss our food. Makes you proud! 

This is what I said during the interview (in Italian) — I wish I was fluent!!!!!!!!!!

Read the press clip (in Italian)

O la cucina libanese, culla della gastronomia mediorientale, con la sua ricchissima e golosa tradizione casearia, come ci racconta la astronoma Barbara Abdeni Massad: “C’è molta similarità tra la nostra cultura culinaria e quella italiana, e per questo agli italiani piacciono i nostri piatti, basati soprattutto su verdura e cereali. Presentiamo anche la nostra specialità: “Formaggio senza latte di grano fermentato”. 

The Google translation:

Or the Lebanese cuisine, the cradle of Middle Eastern cuisine, with its rich and tasty cheese tradition, tells us how the astronomer (weird) Barbara Abdeni Massad: "There is much similarity between our culinary culture and Italian, and Italians like this Our dishes are based mainly on vegetables and grains. We also present our specialty "cheese without milk made with fermented wheat."

Listen

Read phonetically

This is the video link:
salon del gusto

A few shots taken during the fair:

A cultural exchange and so much more ...

Opening Ceremony

Our Maestro, the one and only Carlo Petrini!

Opening ceremony songs and dance.

Our friend from Tuscany, a white cow farmer, he calls me La Libanesa ...

Feel the excitement...

The first meeting for all Arabic speaking countries at Terra Madre.

The best speaker at the Arabic speaking conference, our own Sami!

Pesto Break for Mia!

If you haven't tasted Funghi Porcini, then you have missed out on alot!

Friendships of a lifetime are built at Terra Madre

The Cover of Mouneh

Indrani Sen's Interview

I was cleaning out my e-mails the other day and found this interview conducted by New York reporter, Indrani Sen. She came to discover Lebanon and it's rich culinary roots. She came to my house —we had a man'oushé-making session and of course we ate the product of our labor. I looked over the interview and thought it would be suitable to post on my blog.


Indrani Sen's interview with me:




1. When did you become interested in food and what sparked your interest?


My interest in food started early in my life. I can remember my father writing me a postcard from Paris, while on a business trip "YOUR SAUCE BOLOGNAISE WAS ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS". I was so touched by this compliment. I must have been about 8 or 9 years old. I was brought up in an atmosphere where food was not only to feed oneself but an art in itself. Later in my life, my father opened a restaurant when I was fifteen years old and I worked there after school for three years. So I guess you can say, my interest in food has always existed.


2. How did you get the idea to write about man'oushé?


The idea to dedicate a whole book on man'oushé came about from a romantic dream I used to have. The dream was to make a thorough research on the pizza and the people behind this legendary pie. After having my three children, making dough became a passion. One day, after finishing a training in a restaurant, I woke up with the idea of doing a research on the man'oushé and disregarding the idea that the grass is always greener on the other side. What was available here in Lebanon was pretty magnificent— I just had to go and search for it—and that's what I did...


3. And mouneh?


The mouneh is the traditional Lebanese pantry. Being a fervent believer in everything that comes from the pantry. It was obvious that this was indeed my next step. The mouneh research is harder because there are so many subjects in so many different areas: dairy, pickling, jams, preserves, dried fruits and vegetables, etc...As the motto says, "SUCESS IS NOT THE DESTINATION, IT'S THE JOURNEY". I am learning a lot and having a great time doing it.


4. Why did you choose those two subjects, instead of other aspects of Lebanese cooking?


The journey is not over, I hope it's only the beginning. I will devote myself entirely to all aspects.


5. What is different about the relationship the Lebanese have with food, compared with other countries?


Food for Lebanese is everything. It's a way to be hospitable, it's a way to be sociable, it's a way to be creative, it's a way to be focused. Food is a celebration for the Lebanese— it can become their reason of being.

6. What role does food have in your household?


Food plays a very important role in our household. My son is very much interested in the culinary arena and not only does he love to help me cook, but he loves to EAT! My husband always says" If my wife is happy, the food is great; if she is sad, the food is not so great". It makes you think of that special ingredient that makes homemade food so special....My two daughters have a replica of our real kitchen in their playroom and play hours serving all kinds of delicious make-believe food to their dolls.I guess food definitely plays an important role in our family life.








In the kitchen of our summer home, baking our Sunday breakfast— man'oushé!

You are invited !

Come to Tawlet on November 18 from 6 p.m to 10 p.m and at Librairie Antoine in ABC Ashrafieh on November 20 from 5 p.m to 8 p.m.for the launching of Mouneh: Preserving Foods for the Lebanese Pantry.